|
Throughout history, the popularity of a dark
tan has come and go. We have learned, although, that the damage
done by tanning far outlasts the actual tan. The results…hyperpigmentation.
As a result, both men and women seek ways to fade or even out the
splotches of hyperpigmentation caused by sun exposure and the aging
process.
What is Hyperpigmentation?
Hyperpigmentation
is abnormally increased pigmentation of the skin. To understand how
to prevent or slow down the effects of hyperpigmentation, you need
to understand what causes it. The cells responsible for hyperpigmentation
are located in the top layer of the skin and are
called melanocytes. Melanocytes are the cells that produce a
chemical compound called melanin. Melanin is a sort of protein made
up of an amino acid called tyrosine. It is what makes the skin tan
on exposure to the sun. Over time increased melanin may cause
irregular dark spots on the face, back, arms, hands, and legs.
Those age spots, sunspots, liver spots and freckles are considered
unsightly.
Another cause of hyperpigmentation, hormonal
changes caused by pregnancy or oral contraception, can make the skin
extremely photosensitive. These hormonal changes can create a
condition known as melasma. Melasma is pigmentation that occurs on
the face and is induced when the hormone estrogen stimulates the
melanocytes. When uneven melanin production occurs it creates
patches of hyperpigmentation. These patches of dark brown, sharply marginated, and roughly symmetric areas are also referred to as the
mask of pregnancy. Hormonally related hyperpigmentation may resolve
after pregnancy, but sometimes it needs to be treated with treatment
and skin lighteners.
Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation is the
increase of pigmentation seen in the skin after an injury or
inflammation to the skin such as a rash, acne breakouts, scratching,
bruising, surgical and/or laser procedures. Inflammation also can
cause the melanocytes to produce more melanin. Some drugs can also
induce hyperpigmentation. Some of the most common drugs that cause
discoloration of the skin are amiodarone, minocycline, tetracycline,
bleomycin, and cyclophosphamide and the antimalarial chloroquione.
In most cases where the pigmentation only
involves the superficial layers of the skin, it will eventually
resolve, even when not treated. However, if the condition affects
deeper layers of the skin, treatment may be required and can be over
a prolonged period of time.
Treatments for hyperpigmentation vary,
depending on the individual need. Skin-bleaching agents or skin
lighteners are one such treatment. In actuality, these agents
neither bleach the skin nor lighten. What they actually do is block
the production of the enzyme tyrosinase, therefore, inhibiting the
overproduction of melanin.
Topical treatment is usually with products that
contain hydroquinone, kojic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid,
azelaic acid, topical Vitamin A (Tretinoin), bearberry extract,
licorice extract or combinations of the above.
Hydroquinone
lightens the color of the skin areas to which it is applies, and is
the only FDA approved product for bleaching. It is affective in
about 60-to70% of its users. It is available over the counter in
concentrations up to 2%, with higher concentrations obtained by
prescription. It is safe to use in low percentages and short
periods of time. Too high a percentage of hydroquinone over
prolonged use and direct sun can cause mutagenic damage to
melanocytes. It is imperative to stay out of the sun for the
treatment to work
Kojic Acid
is used as an alternative to hydroquinone. Research shows kojic acid
to be an effective lightening agent, works in the same manner as
hydroquinone and is less irritating.
Mandelic
and glycolic acids are fruit acids. They are not technically
bleaching agents, but have shown to have lightening properties.
Arbutin is
an extract of the bearberry plant. It has been found to be a
popular product used for de-pigmentation and is non-irritating to
the skin. Besides inhibiting the formation of melanin by inhibiting
tyrosinase activity, arbutin is known as an anti-inflammatory and an
anti-bacterial ingredient. Licorice extract as well as arbutin are
well tolerated and do not cause irritation.
When using any skin lightener, it is imperative
that you use the best sunscreen possible. This is because the
melanocytes are particularly sensitive in the areas of
hyperpigmentation and any UV sun exposure will just cause more
pigmentation.
An even complexion is always desired. Most
don’t realize that effects of daily sun exposure. Regular sunscreen
usage can help to prevent unwanted discoloration from even
occurring. Sunscreens, more than anything else, will help prevent
Premature aging and wrinkles in the skin. Just remember 90% of all
wrinkles, age spots and skin discoloration is due to sun and tanning
bed exposure. |