In the early 1950s, retinoids were found to have beneficial effects on skin disorders.   They are a class of drugs that is derived from vitamin A.  It was applied to the skin as a cream, liquid, or gel to treat mild to moderate acne.  One of the benefits observed on women being treated for persistent acne was correction of photoaging with visible signs of smoother, less wrinkled skin. 

Retin-A liquid.025% was the first topical product developed in the late 1960s.   It was extremely irritating.  Later, other retinoids topicals with different concentrations were developed.  It seemed as though a new product would come out almost every year, each one with a milder concentration.  The strategy was to decrease the irritation, but still produce an effective product.

Published articles began to report that topical Tretinoin (Retin-A) caused significant improvement in splotchy pigmentation, and in fine wrinkling, and it increased the skin’s elasticity giving it a more youthful appearance.  In the mid-1980s everyone wanted Retin-A.  It suddenly was the fountain of youth cream.  What was actually happening was that topical Tretinoin was reversing photoaging. The unpleasant effects of too much time in the sun were being corrected.  With the reversal of sun damage, the skin looked more youthful, it had nothing to do with chronological aging.

The older forms of topical Tretinoin had a problem with chemical interactions when mixed with other products.  Development has occurred in the last few years of topical Tretinoin products that are stable enough to be used in combination with other products, such as moisturizers and makeup.

Today there are many more topical retinoids available than just Retin-A.  Aapalene, also known as Differin, is a prescription topical related to other retinoids.  It has a different molecular structure than Tretinoin, but it is effective in treating acne.   It is less irritating than Retin-A.

Retinyl is a topical retinoid frequently found in cosmetic products.  It is mild and seems to have little effect on acne.  It is non- irritating; and manufacturers can claim retinyl has anti-aging ingredients.  Retinyl can be purchased over the counter at pharmacies and supermarkets.

Tazarotene is one of the newest prescription retinoids.  It is effective in both psoriasis and acne.   This retinoid works to clear acne by keeping skin pores clear and normalizing sebaceous glands.  It works in the treatment of psoriasis by making the skin less red and reducing the number and size of lesions of the skin.  It comes in a gel or cream and can be very irritating.  Tazarotene also causes increased sun sensitivity.        

Renova is a Retin-A formulated in an emollient base for sensitive skin. Renova is less irritating and may be better for fair, dry and sensitive skin.  Oily skin can tolerate the stronger Retin-A cream

All topical retinoids have effects on the skin differing in degrees from person to person.  They can make the skin more sensitive to dryness.  They stimulate the production of new cells in the skin and can increase the penetration of various other topical products.  In the first weeks of treatment, uncomfortable symptoms may include burning, stinging, dryness, redness, peeling and scaling.  These effects are temporary and will usually disappear after the first few weeks of treatment, once the skin has adjusted to the cream.  

Topical retinoids should be used at night, because they lose some of their effectiveness in sunlight.  A sunscreen should be used daily because of increased sun sensitivity.  Sun sensitivity will remain up to two weeks after stopping topical applications. The use of these products should be stopped for several days before performing other treatments such as microdermabrasion, laser hair removal, or electrolysis. 

Mild to medium strength retinoids can be used by most people who have moderate to severe sun damage.  Retinoids provide an effective method of reducing the signs of aging caused by excessive sun exposure.  They can improve the quality of skin, give better texture, reduce fine wrinkling, and lighten dark spots and correct acne.  Other skin conditions they can correct include: pre-cancers (actinic keratoses); certain benign skin tumors, hair growth, stretch marks, keloid scaring, hormonally induced facial hyperpigmentation, chemo-prevention of skin cancers, acceleration of wound healing, psoriasis and flat warts.

Not everyone is a candidate to use these products.  Check with your dermatologist or skin care specialist for advice in the choice and proper use of these valuable therapeutic products.

For more information call Dixie Medford @ Classic Beauty Concepts 972 596-7090 or e-mail Dixie@classicbeautyconcepts.com